Brunch in Cleveland — heck, brunch anywhere — used to be an exercise in muted creativity. How many different dishes can we create from a pantry of four ingredients: bacon, eggs, potatoes and bread. A Bloody Mary does not count as an ingredient, despite its ubiquity. But then something magical happened: Chefs who couldn’t be bothered with the traditional began jumping in with two feet. Chefs like Mike Nowak, who works the sweet-and-savory balance beam like an Olympic gold medalist. While still easy like Sunday morning in terms of atmosphere, Black Pig’s weekend brunch offers a level of competence not found at the corner diner. Not only do guests enjoy the benefit of a professional kitchen, but also the service staff that supports it. Come for the short rib hash with eggs and black garlic aioli, or the Black Pig Benedict, with pate-topped English muffin, eggs and Hollandaise, but stay for the relaxed efficiency of a well-run brunch. And the Bloody Marys. Definitely stay for the Bloodies.
2801 Bridge Ave., 216-862–7551, blackpigcle.com.