When your server sets down a platter of Cooker's barbecued ribs, you'll swear you hear choirs of angels singing. The smoky-sweet-clovey aroma puts you into a trance even before your first bite. Slow-cooked for six hours, these slabs of pork baby-back ribs are meaty and tender, without a bit of fat. Before you know it, there's nothing left but a pile of gray bones. Just loosen your belt a notch and order another slab.