Raw fish is not something one should trust from the hands of a budget-minded chef. “Discount sushi” is a phrase best left unsaid. All-you-can-eat sushi really means: “What, are you nuts?! Don’t put that in your mouth.” Seafood is pricey, and raw seafood flown hither and yon within 24 hours of being plucked from the sea is even more expensive. But when the right product lands in the right hands — the hands of a skilled, thoughtful, restrained master sushi chef — the results can be dreamlike. If you’ve dined at Ginko, you know what we mean. It’s not just this piece or that; it’s the whole blessed experience, from that first bite to the very last, an opera in fish form. There is no sushi place in town where we place higher trust in the chef than here, and that is reason enough to open up your wallet and say omakase.
2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1202, ginko.danteboccuzzi.com.