Forget the effete PB&J. At friendly little Lelolai, they make a two-fisted sandwich just right for tough-guy tastes. Constructed on the bakery's own "pan Criolli," the Cubano is piled high with chunks of freshly roasted pork, thinly sliced ham, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, a touch of mustard, and zesty garlic-infused mayo. Then it's pressed and toasted, panini-style, until the innards are warm, the flavors are blended, and the bread crust is shatteringly crisp. Biting into one of these bad boys is like discovering a whole new continent, one where the food practically stands up and sways to sultry Latino rhythms.