There's nothing fancy about the layout of this modest Mexican restaurant. But when the food is as good as this, a diner would be loco to care about artful appointments. Take the cheese-stuffed poblano peppers (chiles rellenos), for instance. Sure, any Mexican restaurant worth its tortilla chips can turn out decent chiles rellenos. But somehow, the ones at Villa y Zapata are so much more delicious. Maybe it's the particularly fresh, especially large peppers that chef-owner Joel Bolanos uses. Or maybe it's the huge amounts of buttery muenster cheese that he stuffs inside them. A delicate egg-wash batter, a short trip to the frying pan, and a dab of piquant red sauce help create the peppers' dark, earthy flavors and velvety texture. These chiles rellenos are nothing less than revolutionary. Pancho and Emiliano would be proud.