Is it the line of Jags and Beemers pulled up outside the door? The dim lighting and slightly edgy decor? Or is it the cadre of black-garbed servers, who seem to know what we need before we even know it ourselves? Yes, yes, and yes. Plus there's Lola's extravagantly gracious owners, Liz and Michael Symon, who, like doting parents, make each guest secretly believe that he or she is their favorite. Michael's smart, playful cuisine has its roots in ethnic Cleveland, and its branches reach toward the stars. There's no mistaking the sense that when you're at Lola, you're right where you belong.