We have been obsessed with Jonathon Sawyer's frites since his Bar Cento days, when a humble spud managed to attract diners to that dimly lit enoteca in Ohio City. The story is the same at Greenhouse, where pitch-perfect pommes frites arrive as a side to dishes like hand-ground beef tartar or as the main event in cult classic like the Animal Frites. That munchies-slaying mountain starts with a tangle of those double-fried spuds, which are gilded with hearty beef gravy, lardons of bacon, mozzarella cheese curds, sunny-side-up eggs and a dollop of whole grain mustard to carve through the richness.
2038 East Fourth St., 216-443-0511, thegreenhousetavern.com.
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