L’Albatros is a peerless Cleveland restaurant that just so happens to be a French restaurant. As we’ve learned from our culinary studies, not to mention the Best Chef category, owner Zack Bruell can wrap a wonderful restaurant around any cuisine, be it Asian, Italian or Coastal seafood. Here, in this transformed University Circle carriage house, the devices employed are provocative dishes culled from the annals of classic French cookery, reshaped into modern works of balance and finesse. In Bruell’s hands, fusty old archetypes like duck confit, roast cod, skate wing and pied de cochon look and taste like contemporary plats du jour. As attractive as the food is, it’s the spotless setting and service that elevates a great meal into a memorable experience. That’s the kind of magic that’s been happening here on a daily basis for seven years.
11401 Bellflower Rd., 216-791-7880, albatrosbrasserie.com.