First-rate fried chicken is as hard to find as hens' teeth in North Coast restaurants these days, but that just gives us an excuse to head over to the Town Fryer, that unpretentious, southern-style roadhouse on the edge of Chinatown. Owner and chief fry baby Susie "Slingo" Porter defies tradition by using boneless, skinless meat - a puzzling choice for a gal who also serves fried Twinkies and fried macaroni and cheese. But she makes up for it by marinating the meat in buttermilk, dipping it into her "special" batter, and deep-frying it to an amber glow. Crunchy outside, juicy within, and almost entirely greaseless, this is fried chicken that is as good after a night in the fridge as it is straight out of the fryer. Colonel Sanders, eat your heart out.