Best Gumbo

Chez Mozell

Free-spirited Mozell Devereaux is an artist, registered nurse, caterer, and chef, but her grandest achievement may well be her superlative seafood gumbo, bristling with shrimp and crawfish, ladled over red beans and rice. The key is obviously in her secret spice mix, a fiery layering of flavors that sear but don't scar the palate. "It's all made from scratch," she promises, "and like everything I cook, it's seasoned with love."