Like Italian marinara or Mexican salsa, there are as many different recipes for Middle Eastern hummus as there are cooks making it. But Judy Khoury's hummus is something special: Thick, smooth, less tart than many, and more complexly seasoned than most, her secret is in her zatar
, that exotic blend of sumac, thyme, salt, and marjoram that she sprinkles liberally on top. Big, bold, and beautifully balanced, this is one chickpea dip that doesn't merely hum
-- it knows all the words.