Like "Corinthian leather" and "Cleveland Indians," the label "microbrew" comes with no assurance of quality. But amid all the overblown hype about microbrews, there's no denying that Cleveland turns out some of the country's best. And most of them are coming from the kettles of the Great Lakes Brewing Company, which produces a top-flight beer for just about every palate. Our choice is the Burning River Pale Ale, a hearty, hoppy brew with a subtle fruity taste. Cleveland's burning river is a memory worth forgetting; its namesake beer is a civic treasure.