Deagan's pioneered the gastropub concept locally, which pretty much requires that you place a gourmet version of macaroni and cheese on the menu. You can't get more gourmet than lobster, but most restaurants offer that shellfish in name and spirit only, perhaps goosing the cheese mixture with a ladle of stock fashioned from leftover shells. Not here, where the sweet seafood plays a starring role right alongside the bacon, leeks and rich, creamy sauce. But don't get too accustomed to the lobster version: Deagan's changes its mac and cheese with the seasons, sometimes opting for pulled pork, other times smoked brisket, and still other times roast duck. All of them hit the spot in a way that only the comforting flavors and textures of mac and cheese can.
14810 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-767-5775, deagans.com.
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