Down in the Flats -- just before Columbus Street crosses the river, passes Hoopples and zooms up to Duck Island -- there is what has to be the least-visited public place in Cleveland. It celebrates a poet, of all things -- one who called Cleveland home during his formative years. (Crane once lived on East 115th Street. When he was still a young man, however, he trotted off to New York and killed himself by jumping off a boat.) With its modern sculptures incorporating verses from Crane's work and its ur-Cleveland setting (the rapid line sits above; the ore boats pass on the river), it encapsulates so much of what this city is about. Relaxed, unpretentious, working. That, and there isn't a better place to catch a breather within the city limits.