Rush-hour Cleveland is practically unnavigable, one big gridlock from the Rock Hall to just outside Akron. Don't stew in your car, listening to endless commercials on sports-talk radio. Pull over and walk to the Clevelander, one of three bars that share an outdoor patio at one of the city's busiest intersections. Sandwiched between Panini's and Alesci's, the Clevelander has the feel of a neighborhood bar - but it's downtown, with a mix of casually attired twentysomethings and businessmen in loosened ties. Weekdays, downtown workers in the know wait out the logjam, soaking in the sunlight and drinking Coronas at the outdoor bar, as buses and SUVs creep by. If it's raining or just too hot, the indoor bar has plenty of TVs, more than 50 bottled beers to choose from, Golden Tee 2005, a real dartboard, Galaga, and hamburgers - glorious fat hamburgers. The traffic is usually gone by 6 p.m., but on breezy summer nights, it's not uncommon for the outdoor party to last long after the sun goes down.