Owner Mark Duraney may have gotten a good deal on a storefront on meat-and-potatoes East 185th Street, but the problem is, few are taking note of the fabulous food at this airy eatery decorated with twinkling lights and pop-art posters. If you call ahead, the friendly Duraney will probably ask, 'What time can we expect you?' because some nights, he sees fewer diners than Mom does at home. Past visits had him whipping up a five-course family-style meal for a group of six and bringing out complimentary after-dinner fruit platters. The mouthwatering white pizza, with a wafer-thin crust and ingredients fresh from the West Side Market, is just right for a reasonably priced night on the town. Other entrées change daily and may include a lemony, lightly breaded veal scallopini or a subtly seasoned four-cheese ravioli. The restaurant doesn't have a liquor license, so bring your own wine.