Unless it's battered, fried and served up in yesterday's newspaper, seafood just feels a little bit more special than the average meal. It certainly requires a defter touch in the kitchen than, say, a grilled steak. For decades, this Lakewood institution has been perfecting the art and practice of seafood cookery, and the cliff-side setting provides an appropriate backdrop. Raw oysters on the half shell are a celebratory treat and the legendary lobster bisque is packed with intense shellfish flavor. The menu is like a Seafood's Greatest Hits album, featuring Florida grouper, Maine lobster, Hawaiian tuna, Alaskan crab legs and Gulf shrimp. If you can't make up your mind, might we suggest the bouillabaisse, which combines a little bit of everything in a seductive saffron-scented broth.
12700 Lake Ave., Lakewood, 216-228-2250, pierw.com.