The laser reds and neon purples that wash over Edgewater Park at sunset make it a fertile location for romance or reflection. But next time dusk approaches, venture due west of the park to Cliff Drive. It's a romantic film noir setting straight out of The Big Sleep. Perfect for parking bicycles and impersonating Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, a narrow hump of grass plunges into Lake Erie, while a string of wonderfully gaudy mansions anchors the rear. One even boasts the perfect Hollywood veranda and grounds dotted with ornate sculpture.