How times change. Used to be you could count the sushi bars in town on the fingers of one hand; now, they are popping up all over. Still, for service, style, and of course, freshness, it's hard to beat one of the originals: Shuhei, Hiroshi Tsuji's serene sushi bar in Beachwood. We like the friendly sushi chefs, who sometimes reward our enthusiasm with little treats -- perhaps a plate of pickled vegetables or a bit of seaweed salad; we like the pretty Asian plates, bowls, and bottles that hold our sashimi and sushi, tea and sake, miso soup and sticky rice. And most of all, we like the beautifully prepared, deliciously dewy items like Maguro Kaiware Maki (spicy tuna rolls), Kampyo Maki (delightful seasoned squash), and Tamago (sweet, custardy layered egg strapped onto a cylinder of rice). Gochiso ni!