Best Sushi


Hard at work behind his tiny sushi bar, with a wall-sized mural of a koi pond as a backdrop, sushi artist and chef Chong Kim is a one-man operation, and his work is as deliberate, painstaking, and labor-intensive as any surgeon's. As a result, the wait between the time an order is placed and when the fine, fresh, generously apportioned sushi creations actually arrive can be maddeningly long. Yet if you are lucky enough to find set before you, say, one of Chef Chong's fantastic dragon rolls -- a massive inside-out California roll, draped in alternating stripes of creamy brown eel, sleek avocado, and dusky nori; bejeweled with lustrous clusters of orange smelt roe and red-and-yellow tobiko; coaxed into a reptilian "S" curve; and finished with gossamer fans of precisely sliced apple -- it's impossible to argue that it wasn't worth the wait.