If olfaction is the queen of the senses, then the fresh, herbaceous cuisine of Vietnam is fit for royalty. And if fragrance is the key to the subconscious, Tay Do
is a portal to another world. The enormous menu is an atlas of traditional fare, directing culinary travelers to dishes ranging from beef fondue (with lean brisket sliced sheer as silk stockings and cooked tableside in a secret-recipe broth) to broad, soft rice noodles, lightly pan-fried to produce a hint of smokiness, and tossed with shreds of roasted pork, threads of tender-crisp vegetables, and a scattering of savory fried-onion flakes. There are better-looking Vietnamese restaurants in town, but for fine, authentic fare, Tay Do is the best.