Behold the White Russian. It is an underrated drink, usually because it's made in dainty glasses, with too much ice and not enough of that most sacred of ingredients: liquor. But the Riverwood Caf@eacute; knows how to do these babies justice. Its whities, mixed in tall glasses and possessing the punch of an Israeli gunship, are from a parallel universe. The staff won't reveal its secret recipe, and at $4.50 a pop, these drinks are a little steep for the peasant pocketbook. But they're good enough -- think of a vanilla shake powered by a nuclear reactor -- to make the Riverwood a destination drinking place.