Dining » Dining Lead

In Vivo? Not Yet

Construction delays keep Todd Stein's new kitchen from coming to life.


Menus change, and chefs come and go, but there's one thing you can count on in this business: No place ever opens when it's supposed to. This ancillary to Murphy's Law has been at work again, this time at Vivo, Chicagoan Dan Krasny's much-anticipated restaurant in the Arcade, which was originally expected to open in early June. Executive Chef Todd Stein says routine construction delays have pushed back the planned opening to around the end of July, although his staff, including sous chef Keoko Turner, and his menu, full of savory-sounding Italian dishes, are pretty much good to go. Stein says Turner, a Cleveland native who has spent five years in the kitchens of top-rated N.Y.C. restaurants, "just sort of fell into my lap. He's tremendously talented, and I couldn't be happier to have him." The decor, too, has the potential to be a knockout, with richly finished hardwood floors, a soaring ceiling, rustic brickwork, and a commanding stainless-steel kitchen. As for the menu, it's a succinct collection of appetizers like beef carpaccio ($10), wood-grilled mussels ($8), and the Vivo Antipasto Plate ($8 per person); and entrées like linguine with clams, pancetta, and chiles ($16); seared halibut with white beans, escarole, and saffron-tomato brodetto ($22); and grilled lamb chops with roasted potatoes and a balsamic red-grape reduction ($26). Might as well put the phone number -- 216-621-4678 -- on the speed dial right now.

Ice cream dreams . . .

Who better to make a superlative frozen custard than Jim and Marcia Rosati, dedicated fans of all things cool and creamy, and owners of the Brecksville and Parma Heights Honey Hut locations? The couple opened their newest sweet spot, Rosati's Frozen Custard, in Northfield Center last August, in a circa-1956 building that was originally a Dairy Isle. Not only have they upgraded the local landmark's appearance, adding landscaping, picnic tables, and a gazebo, but they also make some of the best custard in the region, with a silken texture and extraordinary purity of taste. "My dad (Honey Hut founder Frank Page) always told us to use only the best and freshest ingredients, or the customers would know the difference," says Marcia Rosati. And the lines outside the service windows seem to prove the point. Rosati's is at 95 East Aurora Road (330-908-0889); summer hours are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays and until 10:30 p.m. on weekends.

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