The Best in Amish Chow

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We've never fully comprehended the fuss over Amish cooking. It's one of the most boring "cuisines" around — basic, bland, and far better suited for stoking big appetites than for stroking discerning tastebuds. We've eaten in most of Ohio's Amish-style restaurants, scarfing up the overcooked green beans, sugary Jell-O salads, and stringy roast beef with the rest of the touristas. For our money (not to mention carb count), the best has always been The Amish Door — even before the simple Wilmot restaurant spawned a Disney-esque shopping "village," designed to draw in gawkers by the busload. Seems USA Today food-and-wine guy Jerry Shriver feels likewise. He recently picked the restaurant's broasted chicken and noodles as number 23 on his 2006 list of 25 favorite dishes, putting it in the company of spots like L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, in NYC, and Barndiva, in Healdsburg, Ca. Grilled perch fillets, from the Crosswinds Grille in Geneva-on-the-Lake, incidentally, grabbed the number 20 spot. --Elaine T. Cicora

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