A Powerfully Good Restaurant Pops Up in Findlay

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It’s time to unplug the Prius and Mapquest a course to – of all places – Findlay, for a visit to Revolver. Open since last November, the “modern Midwestern” restaurant is the creation of Michael and Debi Bulkowski, two corn-fed, milk-washed country kids who returned to the heartland after a decade in Chicago, where Michael served as chef at the award-winning Trio, Spring, and the veggie-focused Green Zebra. “We loved Chicago,” says Debi, a Findlay native. “But when it was time to raise a family, we wanted to come back home.” Not that the transition has been without challenges. “Sure, we get the people who take a look at the menu and say, ‘There’s nothing here I want to eat.’ But really, who doesn’t love a great roasted chicken, or a big steak, or well-prepared walleye or scallops?” Revolver’s ingredients are culled from nearby independent farms, and prepared in a simple but sophisticated manner. A starter of potato gnocchi, for instance, is tweaked with Meyer lemon and baby arugula. A grilled pork chop comes with green lentils and black Mission figs. Prices are notably reasonable: At $25, a grilled NY strip steak with polenta and an onion-and-asparagus salad is the most expensive item. And portions are necessarily ample, says Debi, because her clientele “doesn’t want a four-inch by four-inch entrée.” As for the name, it refers to an old-fashioned turntable, not a handgun. Each week, the Bulkowskis not only introduce a new menu, but feature a new musician to set the mood. One week it might be Tom Waits, another week the Beatles, or even Tito Puente or Nina Simone. “I think we really turned a lot of people on to Nina,” says Debi. “Some of them had never heard of her!” But what Revolver really aims for is flawless preparation, regardless of the main ingredient. Not surprisingly, the restaurant recently received the title of “Best Steak,” from a local paper. “That’s not what we were striving for,” Debi chuckles, “but we’ll take it!” Revolver (419-424-4020) is at 110 East Sandusky St. in downtown Findlay; dinner is served starting at 5:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended. -- Elaine T. Cicora

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