This is the kind of touch Symon has, combining simple and regional cuisine with higher levels of cooking, and at his flagship Lola – where he won his James Beard Best Chef Award – one of my favorite standout dishes was his take on an old Cleveland favorite, the pierogi. This doughy eastern European dumpling is a hearty staple in the region, but hardly considered gourmet fare, until Symon upscales it with lighter dough and a filling of beef cheek and wild mushrooms, slathered in a horseradish creme freche, and it is one of few such attempts to turn comfort foods gourmet that really works.
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